Modernity takes toll of Ramzan tradition

By S A Ishaqui


Like in many regions, Ramzan in Andhra Pradesh is linked to mouth- watering sevayya (vermicelli). The link between Ramzan and sevayya is so intimate that this festival has come to be known in the State as "semia la panduga" (feast of sevayya).

Sevayya is not just an ingredient or a dish. It's a tradition as far as Ramzan in the State is concerned. Every Muslim house in Andhra Pradesh used to be busy making hand-rolled sevayya in the last 10 days of the month. Everyone in the family right from the grandma to the toddler used to contribute in making the vermicelli. The neighbours too used to participate, lending their helping hand. In those days sevayya were not sold in the open market and they had to be made at home.

Till 1970s sevayya used to be rolled out by hands. It was a tedious and long- drawn process. Only the experts were involved in the main process, while others used to be engrossed in works like drying the wet vermicelli under the sun. The moulds ranged from ordinary eating plates to aluminium utensils.

Later machines, both manual and mechanical, were introduced, speeding up the process of sevayya preparation. But manual machines were quite popular in those days.

But with life becoming fast in the new millennium, the tradition of making sevayya at home has died down. Today sevayya, of various sizes, are readily available in the market. They are no longer made at home.

Kheer made of sevayya is a Ramzan delicacy and many Muslims make it a point to eat a bowl of sheer khurma before going to the Idgah or mosque to offer the Id prayers.

The making of Sevayya used to be an instrument in bringing hearts closer. It was a week-long process and used to bring the rich and the poor together. Both Muslims and Hindus used to participate in the preparation. There used to be one or two vermicelli machines in a mohalla.
People used to borrow the machine, one after one.

The wheat dough that's left in the machine is rolled into a chapati and cut into small diamond-shaped pieces, called sutlees. The payasam made of such sutlees is one of the Ramzan delicacies.

The sevayya machines have disappeared. So is the tradition of making vermicelli at home. Sevayya used to serve as a thread that bonds the hearts.
And with the tradition gone, the binding thread is broken.